Fish Amok

Back in Phnom Penh

2007-12-01T09:10:00.000-08:00

I didn't think I'd be back in Cambodia so soon. But since the Chinese didn't want us, (after the latest row over the Dalai Lama) we had to come up with plan B or for that matter plan C - which happened to be Cambodia.

It's great to be back. Spent my first day strolling through the streets of Phnom Penh, soaking in the wonderfully chaotic atmosphere, hitching a motodup ride on Sisowath Quai and enjoying the broad young smiles, sitting behind their boyfriends patiently waiting for the red light to turn green. Somehow, the traffic seems less hectic and dangerous I remembered.

What else? It very distinctively smells like Phnom Penh - my colleague says it smells rotten, I must admit I quite like it, and yet I wouldn't be able to describe it.

So, the smell hasn't changed over the past eight months... but I noticed significantly more side walks (which make walking through the city a wee bit safer), new cash points and... a place selling chocolates on 240th street. I can't imagine this becoming a serious threat to The Shop though, two doors down and still my favourite coffee haunt.

Anyway, I'm not back in Cambodia for pleasure, but as a media trainer. Tomorrow we're off to Takeo for an election reporting seminar. No hot water, no internet and only Asian noodles for breakfast. But hey, I'm actually quite excited. Will try to keep you posted via Twitter.

Oh, and I also have an other mission of course... my Fish Amok search continues. And I've booked a cooking class for December 15th. This should be a highlight!

And my Fish Amok search continues on a bigger venture:

www.petitesetgrandesaventures.blogspot.com

Sok So Bei Fish Amok

2007-03-04T01:47:00.000-08:00

Well, that's it. My six weeks in Cambodia are already over... Six weeks of inspiring encounters and over ninety interviews. Six weeks of haggling with motodup and tuktuk drivers. Six weeks of Doxycycline. Six weeks of WIFI hotspot hunting and struggling with the local 011 mobile network. Six weeks of dirt, dust and discoveries. Six weeks of rice, fish, coconuts and Angkor Beer. Six weeks of smiles and beautiful people. Six weeks of crazy driving and many adventures.

Six weeks of road testing Fish Amok... Of course the search for the best Fish Amok continues. For now though, I'd have to say FRIZZ on Sisowath Quai, Phnom Penh's Riverfront makes the best Fish Amork in town. It's creamy, just-right-spicy and melts in your mouth. Frits, a Dutch former journalist, opened this tiny Khmer restaurant on the riverfront three years ago - so, there's a life after journalism! Today he's also offering Phnom Penh's only Khmer cooking classes. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to join one of his daily classes. But next time. Definitely.

And thank YOU for accompanying me on my Cambodian adventure. The weeks ahead will see me producing a long article for the Heinz-Kühn Stiftung about tourism and poverty reduction - and a series of radio feature reports. I'll post the links to all of this material in the near future. For now Okun tscheran sam rap pram muy atit do-lor tschong kroy!!!

The Secret of Fish Amok

2007-03-03T02:08:00.000-08:00

Amok is a Cambodian curry which is steamed instead of boiled and is solid, but moist. There are traditionally two types of amok, one cooked with fish and streamed in banana leaf cups, simply known as amok, while the other, made from snails steamed in their shells, is known as amok chouk.

Ingredients:
400 g meaty fish
2/4 cup coconut cream
2 cups coconut milk
1 egg, beaten
Kroeung:
2 dried red chilies, soaked, drained and chopped into a paste
3 cloves garlic
2 tbsp galangal, cut small
1 tbsp lemon grass stalk zest of ¼ kaffir lime
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp kapi (a shrimp paste)
300 g young nhor leaves (substitute: collard greens and super finely chopped lemon grass)
1 tbsp fish sauce
3 tbsp kaffir lime leaves, sliced thinly
3 cayenne peppers
Banana leaves to make cups

Directions:
First make the kroeung, then slice the catfish thinly and set aside. Remove nhor from stem; slice the kaffir lime leaves and cayenne peppers thinly. Stir the kroeung into 1 cup of coconut milk, and when it has dissolved, add the egg, fish sauce and sliced fish. Then add the remaining coconut milk and mix well. Make the banana leave cups, then put the nhor in first, and top with the fish mixture. Steam for about 20 minutes or until the coconut milk is solid, but still moist. Before serving top each cup with coconut cream and garnish with kaffir leaf and cayenne peppers. Serve with steamed rice.

Making banana leave cups:
First clean the leaves with a wet cloth, then dip them into boiling water so they are soft and do not crack when being shaped. Cut cicles 25-cm in diameter and place two together. This is important as one leaf is not strong enough to hold the mixture. Mark a square in the middle of the circle, this will be the bottom of the cup. Then, put a thumb on one right angle of the square and pull up 2 sides, tucking the fold, and pinning together with a tiny bamboo stick. Then move the next right and repeat. Continue until all 4 sides of the cup are held together.

Mekong Express Onboard Entertainment

2007-03-03T01:39:00.000-08:00

Difficult to say what grabs your attention most... the Karaoke-Melodramatic-Love-Songs by up and coming Cambodian Popstars on TV, the onboard guide telling us in his sing song voice about the production of palm beer that get's you drunk after only one glass (but he assures us the driver hasn't had any... haha... drunk driving is a huge problem in Cambodia... and we've passed two deadly road accidents on that trip alone) or the honking drivers constantly overtaking as trucks, cars, motos and cows are coming towards you. Sitting in the second row I just can't watch the traffic. I'll be glad when I am safely onboard my plane tomorrow. I've heard too many traffic accidents horror stories in the past six weeks.

Five Star Tourism @ the Sweetheart Islands

2007-03-03T01:22:00.000-08:00

Now, it's not all dirty and charmless. If you have a bit more time and don't mind a three hour rocky and deafening trip on a dodgy wooden fisher boat without life jackets and any sort of comfort, there are beautiful deserted beaches off Cambodia's coast. Miraculously Ko Rong, the largest island, is still largely untouched. On the Western side seven kilometers of white sand beach and cristal clear blue water lined with coconut palm trees provide the ultimate Robinson Crusoe feeling. There's not a soul in sight...

Gosh, I was dying to jump into the Turkoise water, but with two fishermen and my macho guide on board I would have had to jump in my clothes (like all Cambodian women do) - and I had nothing to change... bummer!

Unfortunately here too it's just a question of time when development will strike. The whole island is said to have been bought by a thirty-something Cambodian tycoon. Only a few foreign investors managed to snap up part of the cake. These two little islands were bought by Australians who are planning a five star resort here. The plans by star architect Bill Bensley are already drawn. Now they are only waiting for the last inhabitants to leave the island. Four out of ten families have been promised work in the new resort. The other families have two months to clear out, dismantle their wooden houses and rebuild them on the main island Ko Rong just accross the Sweetheart Islands. Each family received $50 to move. The two owners of the island received $30,000 to sell their land and the state gained an unspecified significantly larger amount of money to sign off the lease for the next 70 years. If you have enough cash, anything goes in Cambodia. Not many people would tell me that on the record, but literally everyone would off the record... I've heard that time and time again throughout my trip - and it's the same story all over the country.

Today, it's still difficult to imagine a five star resort with 30 or so bungalows on the water, a spa, a swimming pool, two restaurants on these two dry little islands. But if development doesn't spoil the view across to Ko Rong and local fishermen and their families don't burn and chop down the entire forest, the Sweetheart Islands could well become a little Cambodian gem in the Gulf of Thailand.

The Corridor Policy

2007-03-03T00:57:00.000-08:00

Siem Reap -- Phnom Penh -- Sihanoukville that's the "tourism corridor" that Cambodia's government wants to develop. The aim is simple: keeping the tourists longer than the average 3.2 days in the country and luring them away from the temples with promises of sea, sun and fun. But will tourists stay longer? Will they head en masse to the coast? And how attractive are the beaches of Sihanoukville?

I must admit that I wouldn't fly half around the world to spend a week at one of Sihanoukville's beaches - not even the private Sokha Beach that belongs to the Sokimex empire (owned by Cambodia's Vice Prime Minister). Sokimex also runs the ticketing for Angkor Wat - and also runs many other prime tourist infrastructures throughout Cambodia (see Bokor Palace post). Many ordinary Cambodians and tourism operators I spoke with questioned the operating practises of Sokimex.

Sihanouville itself has the charm of a Soviet built truck, a faint communist era beach resort feel and delapidating gambling infrastrucutre. No glitz, no glam, no charm - not much at all actually... the beaches are rather dirty. I was told that's only because of the recent Chinese new year, when half of the country converged to the beaches to welcone the year of the pig. Well... pigs, what can I say, it is dirty! The shacks bordering the beach are not particularly inviting, the tourists (many older Westerners in search of sex tourism) are rather off-putting as are the one legged or one armed beggers (as sad as it may be) constantly by your side.

Now, I am really being negative here. Sure I am spoiled, once you've been been to Australia or Brazil it's difficult to compare, but I guess I just don't quite understand why anyone would join the current investment craze taking place here. Cambodia will really have to work very hard to turn this Costa del Cambodia with its booming sex tourism into an attractive and sustainable sea side resort where tourists want to unwind after a few dusty days at the temples.

Down the Coast

2007-02-27T04:26:00.000-08:00

Dear reades of Fish Amok Blog!

Your dedicated blogger wrapped up the last interviews in Phnom Penh today. I am now heading down South to Sihanoukville where I'll spend my last three days in Cambodia. Last month the third intenational airport in Cambodia opened there. So I thought I could save a bit of time and fly down. Well.... think again, it's Cambodia! Sihanoukville does now have an INTERNATIONAL airport, but no international flights, no flights from the capital Phnom Penh, just one connection from Siem Reap, though that one I was told is already booked out for the next six month...

So, I guess I'll have to hit the road tomorrow by bus - 7 AM sharp. My plan is to look at child prostitution and tourism - as well as ecotourism development off the Cambodian coast. I'm told the islands are as beautiful as Thailand. We'll see - I'll keep you posted of course!!!

The case of the missing thongs

2007-02-24T20:46:00.000-08:00

Who would steal these?

Following the Cambodian practice of leaving one's shoes outside the house, I thought my shoes would be safe on the steps of the Holiday Guesthouse. So you can imagine my surprise this morning as I was about to get into my shared taxi back to Phnom Penh and my thongs were gone. I was not happy, and searched the entire property for my beloved pair of black & silver reef thongs that I bought seven years ago in Cannes. Even though I still had a pair of runners in my bag, I kicked up a fuss telling the owner I would have to leave the establishment and head back to the capital sans footwear. The owner quite embarrassed helped me in my search and finally rang around to find potential mischievous perpetrators. I had already given up any hope, as a young man walked through the gate with a broad smile, took off MY reefs on the steps in front of the house - and disappeared inside without any word. I thanked the owner and made my way to Phnom Penh, never having been so happy to be wearing my thongs.

First time riding an elephant

2007-02-24T20:29:00.000-08:00

Riding elephants that's what tourists come to do in Mondulkiri. One, two or three day treks in the jungle. Fortunately we were wise enough to only take a half day option that our guide Mr Tree (because he likes trees) organised.

After ten minutes of a bumpy ride, fearing for our life as the elephant went down a slope of at least 75 degrees we decided this was definitely not our favourite mode of locomotion. The elephant Nang Preah seemed to enjoy the workout - despite its 70 years of age. Our guide Soprah less so, he really only cared about his snooze once we took a break down at the waterfalls.
Don't forget to check out the video!

The Srepok Wilderness Area

2007-02-24T20:09:00.000-08:00

It felt strange when the police officer armed with an AK47 jumped onto the back of our pick up to escort us into the Srepok Wilderness Area. We had just stopped at the first outpost of the WWF project and had a chat with rangers and law enforcers there. They showed us wood they confiscated a few weeks ago.

Illegal logging is a huge problem throughout Cambodia and so is poaching. WWF launched a new project four years ago in this remote forest which they say is the Serengeti of Southeast Asia. Five outposts were built in the forest. Rangers and police officers generally spend 20 day stints in the forest, patrolling together and recording the animals they sight on their treks which can last up to five days.

The WWF made a concious effort to recruit former poachers when they chose their rangers for their project. Mr Kha is the head ranger and somewhat of an icon here in the region. A former body guard during the Khmer Rouge he tells me he shot ten tigers during his more than 30 years of hunting.

Poaching is a very lucrative business or at least it used to be when the forest was full of animals. But during the years of war, this area close to the Vietnamese border was heavily bombed and hunting seriously endangered many species throughout the forest. Now the WWF along with the Cambodian government is trying to put an end to poaching. Community extension teams are teaching locals why hunting has such negative effects and how it will ultimately destroy their livelihoods. The process is of course long. 65% of the villagers (most of them ethnic Phnongs) are said to be still hunting in the forests and you can't stop them from going into the forest from one day to the next. After all they have been living off the forest for many generations.

WWF's approach is therefore twofold: firstly working on the conservation and law enforcement, and secondly: closely working with the communities to make sure they will have sustainable alternative sources of income when they completely stop hunting. The WWF's local extension teams are training farmers how to improve their chicken raising and their rice production. They teach them about mushroom plantation and wild honey gathering. In addition the WWF also plans to set up a five star tourist lodge on the banks of the Srepok River. It will not only be an additional source income for the locals, but encourage the Cambodian government to really enforce the laws and protect the wildlife in this area. It sounds obvious, but theory is a richer wildlife will lead to more tourists and hopefully prompt the government to make this area a priority - and ultimately see more benefits flowing back into local communities.

Cocktails & Dreams - Sen Monorom Sunrise

2007-02-24T20:06:00.000-08:00

We've been staying four nights in Sen Monorom, Mondulkiri's provincial capital. This has provided us ample opportunity to sample local cuisine and local bars... Menus are flexible: order a plain omelette and get an onion one, or even better just fried eggs... 45 minutes after ordering and the waiter having checked twice what we had ordered. If you do however order fried eggs don't be surprised if you get an omelette -- I am NOT kidding!

Unfortunately unconfirmed reports of dog being served in one restaurant on the main road remain... unconfirmed.

A new bar opened up with comfortable lounges a few days ago - we showed them how to make shandies and explained what a Gin & Tonic is. And yes we found it odd that you could open a bar without knowing how to make a G&T. But then when you hear the manager's incredible life story nothing surprises you. From a poor rural family Sayna slept on the streets of Phnom Penh while studying English. His proficiency in English led to jobs at Phnom Penh's best hotel and later an international NGO. His family did not see him for six years and thought he was dead. Despite his own difficult circumstances he supported his friend to learn English too. After all that his new bar deserves a chance to succeed. So, if you hear of a cocktail called "Sen Monorom Sunrise" this will be our legacy in this town.

Lost grandeur at the Bokor Palace

2007-02-24T04:52:00.000-08:00

Once a roaring casino during the French colonial era, driving up the torturous mountain track is a gamble today (see video). When offered the choice of a hum wee, a landcruiser or a Toyota Camry Sedan I elected for the cheapest option of the Camry. When tarmac turned to dirt and rocks I thought I had made a grave error. However, in the Camry my driver and I overtook dozens of 4WD and probably set a new record for ascent and descent (4 hours, 35 minutes and 52 seconds). Along the way up colonial homes lie in ruins, the region saw heavy fighting between the Khmer Rouge and the Vietnamese. At the top the battered Roman Catholic Church is simply a shell (see video), but the views towards the see - once the mist clears - are spectacular.

Lost grandeur wandering around through the rooms of the Bokor Palace you can imagine it would have been a pretty special place to play roulette up here. On a clear day you can see Thailand to the West and Vietnam to the East. Five star tourism has not quite returned yet, even though there are rumours that Sokha (who owns half of Cambodia) bought up the entire Bokor National Park. For now the residents of the Bokor Hill Top Station are local food stall holders catering to day trippers - both Khmer and foreigners.

This place is also known for the occasional UFO sighting!

Rabbit Island

2007-02-24T03:10:00.000-08:00

One of the main attractions off the coast of Kep is Rabbit Island, a twenty minute boat trip with a local fisherman. Along the beach there's a little bit of a Robinson Crusoe feel about this sparesly populated little island. Backbackers love cheap accomodation in basic small huts. If you don't mind roughing it - there's everything here for a fun time - including fresh seafood & cold beer.

But just behind, the rubbish tip shows once more how unplanned the tourism is. One wonders if tourism will bring here a short term economic benefit or a long term environmental headache?

Kep-sur-Mer

2007-02-24T02:32:00.000-08:00

Kep, or Kep-sur-Mer as this little seaside resort on the Cambodian coast was called during the French colonial years, was THE place for Phnom Penh's elite. Also after independence Kep was Cambodia's Riveria for the country's "who's who". The king and his family had (and still have) their property here, and so did other well to do families. They would come down for weekends, dance chachacha & tango here, play roulette at the casino or just come to enjoy sea, sun & fun in good company.

But with the rise of the Khmer Rouge, the Vietnamese intervention in the late 70's, the ensuing looting and many years of war - the little village fell into disrepair.... The stylish 60's villas built by Cambodian students of Le Corbusier decayed - and still bear witness to decades of war and destruction. Kep became very much a ghost town - completely off the tourist map - actually off anyone's map really. The Vietnamese border 20 kilometres to the east has been closed for the past 30 years - very much making this place "au bout du monde".

Now things are changing: Kep is kicking back into life. A few guesthouses have opened, foreigners and Phnom Penh's expats are buying up the old houses and giving them a serious facelift. Today, walking through Kep, it's a strange feeling... caught between the grandeur of the past, the spooky years of terror and war - and a rebirth that is actually quite contagious. I caught myself thinking: "And what if I bought this run-down house? What would I do with it? And would the investment be worthwhile?" Like with so many places in Cambodia, it's too early to tell - but there's no doubt that I won't recognize Kep next time I'm back.

Sketchy Internet Access

2007-02-24T02:22:00.000-08:00

Hello and sus dei faithful readers of Fish Amok Blog!

Your dedicated blogger has been very busy on the road to Kep, Kampot and Bokor National Park (South East of Cambodia) -- then on to the Mondulkiri province. Over the past four days I made Sen Monorom, the provincial capital of Mondulkiri, my base to see the development of ecotourism and high end tourism in this region.

Mondulkiri is the biggest, but also least populated province in Cambodia. It is very remote in the North-East of the country bordering Vietnam. Today it is an ardous seven hour drive from Phnom Penh, but land speculation and tourism development is changing this tiny provincial capital (7.000 hab) day to day. Internet hasn't quite made it here yet, but I have no doubt next time I come here, I'll be able to hook up Wifi in one of the cafés that are opening up on a weekly basis.

But let me first tell you about my impressions down south.

Sey: Cambodia's national sport

2007-02-14T03:15:00.000-08:00

I've been telling you about Phnom Penh's nightlife. Very popular - with fans and players - is a game called "sey". Every day from 5 pm till dusk Cambodians gather for what seems to be a national sport - male only. It involves a lot of kicking around and a special ball (to me it looks like a Badmington thingy, but it's not...)

Pasta & co.

2007-02-14T03:08:00.000-08:00

I was craving for a good pasta tonight... after three weeks of rice, I thought I was really deserving it!!! (Back in Germany, I have pasta every other day...)

So, for anyone travelling to Phnom Penh PopCafé on Sisowath Quay is THE place to go. Georgio's home made tagliatelle con funghi & gorgonzola are out of this world. It was so good, I had to make sure I was not eating too fast and suffocating.

Now, I'm ready for another three weeks of rice ;-))

Kings of the Road

2007-02-14T02:45:00.000-08:00

"Kings of the Road", that's what Robert an aid worker from New Zealand calls the cyclo drivers from Phnom Penh. They're somewhat of an icon, he says, and have been around for a long time - as a matter of fact since 1936. Most of the cyclos you see around town are originals - though rebuilt many times of course. Over the years though, life has become much harder. Competition for public transport is greater and prices lower - especially with the rise of tuktuks. The ever growing traffic makes work on the streets more difficult. Robert, who's written a book about Phnom Penh's cyclo drivers, says people treat them as bottom of the heap - they don't get much respect from anyone.

Around two to three thousand cyclo drivers try to make a living here in Phnom Penh - at least in the dry season. Almost all of them are farmers from the provinces. In the wet season they return to farm their land. But from November to May they're pedaling through the capital trying to earn a bit of money to send back home. And it's hard earned money. Most earn around 5,000 to 6,000 riels a day (the equivalent of $1,5) , sleep on the streets and worry about being mugged every single night as crime is on the rise.

The cyclo centre is a hole in the wall NGO, where the drivers can come to discuss their problems, have a shower, consult a doctor or learn English in the free daily classes. Today, I was invited to teach five or so cyclo drivers. I asked a lot of questions about their lives, and they asked me about mine. How is life in Germany different from Cambodia? Good question, where do I start? It's much colder over there right now... we have no cyclos... and people are a lot less friendly back home...

Robert has his doubts about how much longer cyclos will be around in Phnom Penh that's why he's determined to turn the cyclo center into a sustainable business. His plan is to select 100 or so cyclo drivers who will be taught in tourism skills such as map reading and knowing their way around the city (my experience is this skill is ALWAYS lacking - how many times have I said "I want to go to street 152 - do you know where it is?" "Yes, yes" - and ended up at the other end of town).

Robert is currenlty drawing up a business plan, getting in touch with tour operators and looking for donors for the project's pilot phase. And I've definitely changed my mind about cyclos. If you're not pressed for time, it's a wonderful way to get around in the city: it's quiet, it's serene - and while you're doing it, you're giving an income to Phnom Penh's poorest.

What does it feel like to cross a six lane avenue on a cyclo? Check out my video!

Weekend Quiz

2007-02-10T01:48:00.000-08:00

People the world over like going out on weekends... going to the movies, hanging out at pubs or maybe partying until dawn. Here in Cambodia - or I should say Phnom Penh - young people hop onto their motorbikes (if they have one) or their friend's one and drive all evening up and down the quay along the Tonlé River. Cambodians of all ages also love taking out their mats and plonking themselves with familiy and friends in public spaces to catch up, enjoy the milder evening temperatures and watch the action roll by....

Also very popular on these nights out on the town are these litle treats which come in all shapes and sizes... I would like you to tell me what this particular little snack is? The winner will get a bag of those!!

Headquartered at the FCC

2007-02-10T01:42:00.000-08:00

The best WIFI in town is at the Foreign Correspondent Club (FCC) of Siem Reap. Located in a beautiful two storey white building, it combines a distinctive colonial feel with modern minimalist design -- and great photo exhibits. The small veranda and the dozens of dark ventilators remind of a bygone era, while the sleek furniture and the stylish long bar are very NOW. A comfy beige sofa chair by the only electric plug has been my WIFI headquarters for the past ten days -- the waiters are getting used to me having shandies or 'Sandy'as they call it.

I love their use of space - seemingless transitioning from inside to outside - all open and airy, and yet with distinctive sections for eating, cooking - or chilling. The lawn in front of the FCC is always set differently, sometimes with small tables for tete-à-tete dinners, sometimes with long tables for big dinner parties, and even a set of sofa chairs to recline and enjoy a few cold Angkor beers after a dusty day at the temples. The only thing missing are the foreign correspondents - though admittedly, it's also nice to get a break... What else? The food's not great -- so stick to the drinks!!

Cambodian contrasts - or where does the waste go?

2007-02-08T03:42:00.000-08:00

I've interviewed quite a few hotel managers here in Siem Reap and wondered: where does their water comes from? There is no proper water supply system here. Where does their waste water go? There is also no sewage system, and what do they do with their garbage? The water issue is a long story (and I'll tell you more about that in another blog). But today was all about garbage. What happens to all the waste made by 1.5 million tourists? "Well, it's picked up every day", I was told. But where does it go? "No idea!" General manager after general manager, from one star to five star hotels, always had the same answer: "We pay around $100 per month to the garbage collecting company MICC to pick it up, but we have not the faintest idea where they take it". Hmmmm... I tried getting an interview with MICC - but like with so many other authorities, it's always the same bureaucratic nightmare: "You need to send a fax with your official letterhead". Yeah right, how am I supposed to do that???

Anyway, one morning, as I was making my way to visit a conservation project in Angkor Wat I saw one of the green MICC trucks. I jumped out of the car and stopped the truck asking the startled workers where they were going. Like so often, they had no idea what I was talking about (even though I was using all the body language I could think of). But I soon surrounded by a crowd of amused Cambodians and someone managed to tell me "behind the new stadium". Thanks!

So today I thought I'd check out this dump. Rachel, a British volunteer with VSO and an environmental consultant whom I had met earlier, was also curious to learn more about it. And so off we went on her motorbike in search of the dump. First, no one knew where the new stadium was... each time we asked we were vaguely pointed in an eastern direction "two kilos, two kilos" (meaning: two kilometers) - Rachel speaking Khmer it was not a language problem this time.... But after backtracking a few times and quite a few "two kilos" we finally managed to find the new stadium (I had actually seen it as we arrived to Siem Reap the first time thinking "interesting, they're building an extravagant mosque")... I'm rambling... so here was the stadium, but still no dump in sight. "Follow the trucks" we were told and so we did, driving many kilos on a dirt track, inhaling tons of dust - and soon both looking like we'd been on the road for seven days... still no dump...

Just as we decided to give up and head back into town, we spotted a green "MICC" truck - stopping along the road and dropping off bags of garbage at various houses along the way. (My only guess is that those families were earning a meager income from recycling whatever was recycable in those bags). By the smell of it, we knew we were getting closer.

The dump was bad, though not as bad as I would have expected. And yet it was shocking to see people living just meters away and kids playing amongst the litter. A young woman with a sick two year old on her arm told us how miserable life is around here. There's no way you can cook clean food here, she said. Her house is infested with insects - flies everywhere. And yet, she adds, she cannot even complain, the land she and her family live on belongs to the MICC - the government sold it to the company (expropriation is not unusual in Cambodia). No wonder, the MICC was not keen for me to see this...

'd be curious to know where the thousands of dollars go that MICC is getting every month... A hotel pays an average of $100/month, a guesthouse $40/month, a normal household $10/month - simple mathematics and you multiply this times 91 hotels and more than 170 guesthouses (even leaving out the individuals) and you get more than $15.000 - a huge sum of money by Cambodian standards...

Back in Siem Reap, covered in dust, all sweaty in my dirty jeans and disgusting looking shoes - I rush to my next appointment: the "amansara" - Siem Reap's poshest and most expensive hotel (a night here costs around 800$).

The contrast couldn't have been bigger...

Another Sunday at Angkor Wat

2007-02-06T04:03:00.000-08:00

Sundays have been my temple days, so today I decided to spend more time in my favourite temple Bayon, discover "new" temples - and talk to more tourists - after all, if it was not for them, I wouldn't be here.

At Bayon, the temple with the many faces, I had a long chat with Chhay and Om, two boys from a nearby village who just graduated from high school. Every Sunday they come to the temples with their textbook to learn more about Angkor and the temples' history. They also listen in to what the guides have to say...

I had overheard them discuss what is the meaning of the four Buddha faces carved into the four sides of the temples many towers... Charity, Compassion, Sympathy... But what was the fourth one? Now, here I could help - because I had paid attention to my guide last week... Equanimity!! Those are also the four qualities you need to strive towards to become a Buddha. Chhay and Om told me they were not aiming that high. Their dream though - like so many other youngsters here in the Siem Reap region - is to become a guide. And so they spend as much time as they can in the temples - and work on improving their English. Guides are well paid by Cambodian standards. And if you happen to speak Korean or Japanese on top of English you're really in demand and cashing in. There's a high chance you'll be booked out weeks in advance. Russian, a guide told me, is also in fashion, as there are only 10 Russian-speaking guides out of a total of 1,983 (Siem Reap's total population is around 100.000 - just to put these numbers in proportion). I also spotted the first woman guide, also a rarity around Angkor.

Less of a rarity are Korean tourists who make up more than 20 % of all tourists visiting Angkor Wat. Like their Japanese neighbours, they never go out without their hats and I personally LOVE their gloves (you could catch something nasty!). The hordes of tourists can be a bit of drag, but as soon as you leave the circuits mapped out in the various temple guides and venture out to smaller, less visited temples, that's when you experience the real attraction of Angkor Wat.

I'd suggest taking the time to sit down in the shade to speak with young monks who converge to the temples on their days off. Or listen to the tropical forest and marvel at century old genius. The details, the size and the settings, are temple after temple (no matter how many times you've been here) both breathtaking and overwhelming.

I went back to Angkor Wat for sunset. I had been asked what I prefer: sunset or sunrise? I'd have to say you must see both, but the light at sunset is pretty special!

Anyone for Iced Coffee?

2007-02-03T19:25:00.000-08:00

Well, I guess you thought these villagers are in the middle of nowhere... but you can get almost anything delivered to your floating house... I did pass on this little treat however...

How to reach Nirvana?

2007-02-03T19:22:00.000-08:00

I mentioned earlier that Cambodia celebrated "Miak Bochea" today, the time when Buddha reached Nirvana. So for anyone who might be wondering how to reach Nirvana - there are eight ways you need to get "right" - at least that's what my guide Mr Sorn said last Sunday:

1. Right view
2. Right action
3. Right livelyhood
4. Right meditation
5. Right contemplation
6. Right speech
7. Right thought
8. Right effort

Now, having said that - what is "right" is still up for discussion.

How comfy is a Cambodian mat?

2007-02-03T02:50:00.001-08:00

Unfortunately I became really ill as I made my way to the floating village of Prék Toal to meet the local team of Osmose. Butthe women of the village are very sweet. As soon as they noticed that I was not well, out came the old bottled Chinese medicine. I had to rub a violet liquid on my stomach - and a green one on my face... Their attention is very sincere and straight forward, the effect of the potions less so... I spent the rest of the afternoon in a hammock regaining a bit of strength onboard the floating house of Ravi my host.

Later in the afternoon I joined Chheang from Osmose for a little tour of the village. He had to do a few interviews trying to identify the families interested in the new collective savings programme that Osmose is just setting up. He also wanted to see which of the women in the village are interested in participating in the new mushroom plantation project. Now, you would think: how the hell can they grow mushrooms on floating houses? It's quite amazing how resourceful they are here. Some families have wonderful floating gardens - including palm trees, mango trees and banana trees. They grow morning glory (a local Cambodian plant), eggplant, lemon grass, papaya, pineapple - you name it.

It does take a lot of work though, and not all the families Osmose has helped to set up these floating gardens have managed to keep them alive. This is not one of the most beautiful gardens, Chheang tells me, but it is still yielding fruits and vegetables...

Back at Ravi's it's soon time to go to bed...

My first night on a traditional Cambodian mat is better than expected. A bit hard (I must admit), but the rocking of the waves put me rapidly to sleep... and it's only the blarring of the village's "radio" that wakes me up the next morning. Well "radio"... it's more like a big loudspeaker alternatively shouting out music (both pop and traditional), information (propaganda) and prayers. On this day Cambodia celebrates "Miak Bochea" - the time when Buddha reached Nirvana. To me the prayers seem particularly long and loud. Gosh, it's so good to have a radio you can turn off!!

I was the last one to get up. Here Ravi's kids get ready to go to school in their white and blue uniforms.

Only the youngest one stays at home because she doesn't know how to swim. The four year old gets a lice inspection instead (and ever since my head started scratching... you might see me come back with short hair).

In the meantime the women of the family clean the house and the men work on repairing the fishing nets. For me it was time to inspect the 50 crocodiles at the back of the house. (I forgot to ask whether the little altar was for the crocodiles or someone else - maybe snatched up by the reptiles?)

I spent the rest of the morning sitting on the veranda in front of Ravi's house, watching the villagers float by... I wonder what people here expect of life. Ravi tells me she doesn't have any big problems. Only minor ones: for example with her employees who are not working well and are too lazy. Those employees also happen to be her relatives, and that doesn't make things easier. But she shruggs her shoulders and says she dreams of times when more tourists will come to Prék Toal and she will have her own souvenir shop.

Everyone in Prék Toal knows that the rich fish stocks of the Tonlé Sap are in decline, that life will become more difficult in the future and that it's time to think about alternative sources of income. Sambath, the local project officer of Osmose in the village hopes that more and more children will manage to get a university education and ultimately be able to leave the floating village for a better life on firm ground.

Back in my hammock waiting for the boat from Battambang to Siem Reap. There are two boats a day - one in the morning, the other one in the afternoon - between 1.30 and 2.30 PM. Like with many things in Cambodia you just have to wait and be patient. And when the boat comes just simply wave it down - and the journey continues.

Osmose

2007-02-03T02:44:00.000-08:00

Osmose is a small NGO launched in 1999 to implement a pilot conservation and development project in three floating villages of the Prék Toal area of the Tonlé Sap lake. Its aim is to link the preservation of endangered water bird colonies and the protection of the environment to the sustainable development of these local fishing communities. Today the project is helping more than 130 very poor families whilst working on three areas:

1. Conservation: A local conservation team, employing 25 villagers, is taking care of the protection of the waterbird colonies. 12 of them are former illegal bird and egg collectors - they were once at the root of the problem.

2. Education: From Monday to Friday Osmose collects children from their floating homes and offers them environmental classes. More than 1,100 children learn why it's so important to take care of the Tonlé Sap and how illegal fishing and hunting has a negative impact on their own future.

3. Ecotourism: Guided tours of the bird sanctuary and the three floating villages provide alternative income to the villagers. Osmose has also supported the revival of the local knowledge of water hyacinth weaving. 23 women have set up a little store in the village Prek Toal to sell their handicraft and in mid-February they will also start selling their products at the new night market of Siem Reap. Expectations are high - so far these women have managed to double their income with this project .

Cambodian Glam @ Ciclo-Fashion-Show

2007-02-02T06:27:00.000-08:00

Cambodian fashion has more to offer than the traditional "Konsean" (scarf), "Arv" (cotton blouses) and "Kor" (pants)...

Those ladies were all spotted at a Ciclo-Fashion-Show here at Siem Reap's two day Silk Fair...

Pretty neat way of sexing-up a ciclo...Maybe I should reconsider my vow not to take ciclos? (see earlier blog)!!!

The Enchanted Forest of Kampong Phlouk

2007-01-31T04:16:00.000-08:00

Seeing that my task here in Cambodia is to research how tourism can benefit more Cambodians and what can be done to keep tourists a bit longer than two nights and three days in Siem Reap - and actually have them discover different parts of the country, I investigated some of the nearby options once you get sick of temples...

A 20 minute drive from Siem Reap, the floating village of Chong Kneas on the Tonlé Sap (South-East Asia's biggest lake) is definitely an option. The village has everything from floating stores, to a floating gas station and a floating school - including two gymnasiums for kids to play soccer or basketball.

And for those who need their little prayer every day, there's even a floating church. It's unusual, but actually very interesting and wonderful for sunset. Unfortunately, it's not really off the beaten track. Quite the contrary, nowadays it seems to be a "must see" on every Angkor tour, drawing between 2000 and 3000 tourists every single day... bumper to bumper boat...

The enchanted forest of Kampong Phlouk is more difficult to reach, but much more rewarding. After a two hour rocky boat trip on the Tonlé Sap, we get a first glimpse of the tiny fishing village. The village is entirely build on stilts - about 6 to 7 meters high - as the Tonlé Sap can rise up to 10 meters during the wet season.

Right now, it's the dry season - so the village looks a bit surreal. The wooden houses, perched up high, are empty these days, as all the action of day to day living such as cooking and socializing happens underneath the houses - or along the dusty main road. From November to April the fishing season is slower. Over this time villagers repair the fishing boats or work on their nets.

In the dry season, raising crocodiles in cages along the shore is a very lucrative business (that only rich families can afford). A nice big crocodile can be sold for almost $2,000. Drying shrimps in the middle of the village road is also an option, albeit not as financially rewarding...

On the village's one and only main road playing volleyball is very popular.

And then there's also the Ecotourism project that was set up in Kampong Phluk by UNDP and other NGOS a few months ago. But after having had lunch there, I spoke to the villagers and soon realised that the so-called "community based tourism project" does not really benefit the wider community, as the team-leader was claiming in an interview just minutes before. It seems only a few women, from selected families, have so far been asked to cook onboard the floating tourist restaurant. But maybe this will change in the future? It maybe too soon to judge as the project only started three months ago.

My day ended with a magnificent paddle tour through the flooded forest of Kampong Phlouk. A local fisherman took me on his traditional wooden (and very shaky) boat. Why do the people here call it the "enchanted forest"? If you ever come to Kampong Phlouk... you will find out why!

Sunrise at Angkor Wat

2007-01-28T20:57:00.000-08:00

5.45 AM

The place is already packed with tourists.

Everyone is eagerly awaiting the sunrise... flashs are going off everywhere... the Japanese tourists are overly represented here this morning. My guide Mr Sorn says this is normal Japanese just simply love the sunrise at Angkor Wat - Cambodians prefer the sunset, he tells me. It's all a question of taste.

6.15 AM

7.10 AM

7.25 AM

I'm off to the Temple of Ta Prom. But I'll definitely come back, as I have to check out the sunset.

Cambodian 101

2007-01-28T20:27:00.000-08:00

Heute habe ich meinen Kambodschanischen Wortschatz erweitert:

Tschom Reap Sour - Hallo!
Sus Dei - Guten Tag!
Knom Schmor Barbara - Ich heiße Barbara
Okun (Tschea) - Danke (sehr)
Tschom Reap Lear - Tschüß!

Kilim und Perser kriegen Konkurrenz

2007-01-28T19:21:00.000-08:00

Kilim und Perser - klar alles wunderschöne Teppiche aus dem Iran, Afghanistan und anderen Ländern aus dem Mittleren Osten. Aber schon was vom "Kandal" gehört? Wohl noch nicht, aber das könnte sich bald ändern... denn die deutsche Gesellschaft für Technische Zusammenarbeit (GTZ) hat vor kurzem in der Kandal-Region, nordwestlich von Phnom Penh, ein neues Entwicklungsprojekt gestartet.

Worum geht's?

Um diesen typischen kambodschanischen gewebten Teppich - auch "Kandal" genannt. In der Kandal-Region weben Frauen, getreu einer alten Tradition, diese farbenfrohen Teppiche. Für viele dieser Weberinnen und ihre Familien ist es die einzige Einnahmequelle.

Am Tag weben die Frauen im Durchschnitt drei solche Teppiche. Ihr Lohn dafür ist selten mehr als ein Dollar.

Mit dem "Kandal"-Projekt wollen die Experten der GTZ helfen, die Qualität dieser Teppiche und ihre Vermarktung - auch nach Europa - zu verbessern, und so die Einkommen der angesprochenen Familien anzuheben.

Anfang Januar ist die erste Phase der Projektes angelaufen: im Entwicklungsjargon heißt sie "Analyse der Wertschöpfungskette", das heißt die verschiedenen beteiligten Akteure werden von GTZ-Mitarbeitern interviewt.

So sollen Schwachstellen identifiziert werden, aber auch Potentiale. Die beteiligten Akteure sind in diesem Fall:

1. Die Bauern, die die Seggen produzieren aus denen die Teppiche gewebt werden

2. Die Frauen und Weberinnen

3. Die Händler, von denen die Frauen meist abhängig sind, denn diese stellen ihnen häufig die Seggen für die Produktion der Teppiche zu Verfügung und auch die Webkämme und anderen Geräte, die sie zum Weben benötigen. Auf die Preise haben die Frauen in den seltensten Fällen wirklichen Einfluss.

4. Die Verkäufer, die die Teppiche in größere Provinzstädte oder nach Phnom Penh auf den Markt bringen.

Ein wichtiges Anliegen des Projektes ist, die Weberinnen und Händler zu motivieren, sich in Genossenschaften zusammenzuschließen und ihre Interessen gemeinsam zu vertreten. Diese Phase jedoch, so schätzten die Mitarbeiter der GTZ, dürfte besonders schwer sein. Zu groß ist die Angst vor Kooperativen, zu stark die Skepsis gegenüber jeglicher Authorität. Zu tief sitzt das Misstrauen aus der Vergangenheit - besonders seit den dunklen Jahren der Khmer Rouge Terrorherrschaft.

Doch die GTZ ist zuversichtlich: das Projekt birgt großes Potential. Mit dem "Kandal" könnte der Durchbruch auf den internationalen Markt gelingen - und wer weiss, vielleicht gehört der "Kandal"-Teppich in Zukunft genauso in das Ikea-Repertoire wie der "Poäng"-Stuhl oder der "Pax"-Schrank...

First Field Trip

2007-01-27T02:33:00.000-08:00

I've been in touch with the German Development Agency GTZ since my arrival in Phnom Penh. They suggested I join two of their teams for a field trip to get a first impression of rural life in Cambodia and to visit their latest private sector promotion project involving the "Kandal" carpet. But before getting into the nitty gritty of this Cambodian woven carpet -- here are a few snapshots of my first ferry trip:

Crossing the Tonlé Sap River.

Do I need to say anything? Trust me, I tried to hitch a ride with them! It's the cheapest way to get around in Cambodia... I guess it's much the same for these poor ducks:

They're still alive... though probably somewhat dizzy...

How do I get to 39 street 528?

2007-01-24T16:37:00.000-08:00

Or, how to make it on time for an interview appointment in Phnom Penh rush hour...

It's mad, really mad! No matter what mode of transport you choose. With a 4WD and a driver, a well paid expat might be comfy and cool but your car is way too big to push through the crazy rush hour traffic pouring onto the streets of Phnom Penh shortly after 5pm.

The Tuk Tuk has charm, but even this mode of locomotion is too big to sneak right, left and center of the bumper to bumper cars.

So there's still the choice between a cyclo and a moto - I've done the cyclo once and felt terribly bad, that a skinny Khmer driver half my size (and weight) would have to peddal hard to get me to my destination - my choice of transport is the moto.

It's quick, cheap, and whilst sometimes lifethreatening always an adventure. Turning left onto a main boulevard one first drives on the wrong side because there's no way to cross the three lanes to the other side in one go - and waiting is never an option, even not at most red lights... motos are coming from all sides, overtaking from left and right, squeezing through any tiny spot between cars, trucks and busses. Entire families, colourful bulky goods or life stocks are transported this way. I even spotted a party of five. Wearing a mask is not unusual... it first made me think of SARS, but when the pollution hits you it actually makes sense.

So, I had my interview appointment at 5.30. Half an hour earlier and Phnom Penh not being really big I thought half an hour would get me there way too early... My driver didn't really know where street 528 was, but he seemed confident - and so was I. After all, I thought, numbering the streets instead of having names was pretty straight forward. Well, think again, we're not in the US here... every district has its own numbers - and I had no clue in which district Dr. Koma was waiting for me. Too bad, we ended up at one end of Phnom Penh, unfortunately the wrong one. For a change my mobile was not working, so I had to borrow one from a little girl, soon drawing the attention (and laughter) of a dozen people as I unpacked my laptop to extract Dr. Koma's mobile number... grhhhh... he was waiting for me at the other end of town. So I hopped back on the moto -- off into another round traffic nightmare. I did end up getting to 39 street 528 half an hour late... the tour was all the bit worthwhile, as I learnt everything about agriculture and rice production. And why Cambodian farmers take it easier than their Vietamese neighbours. But more about that another day!

Why "Fish Amok"? Cambodians would know...

2007-01-24T16:33:00.000-08:00

My first "working" day in Cambodia had to end with Fish Amok - the country's popular national dish and my all time Khmer favourite. Back in Germany a few months ago I had disastrously failed to cook it for some friends, dropping the fish and the coconut concoction in the boiling water of the bain marie... In future, I promised myself I would only have the "real stuff"...

So, tonight I caught a moto to Café Amok on 2 street 278. If anyone, they should get it right. Amok here refers to the specific Khmer way of cooking with curry sauce and has nothing to do with fish running wild - though your taste buds might!

The cook in the kitchen refused to share her secrets with me, but waiter Chay did:

- choose a nice freshwater fish filet
- marinate in coconut curry sauce
- add limes leaves and sweet basil
- wrap in banana leaf or coconut
- boil in a bain marie until it's ready to melt in your mouth

This Fish Amok was good, but I missed the banana leaf and it could have been a wee bit more spicey.

** out of *****. For me the verdict is still out.

So, what's my plan?

2007-01-24T16:32:00.000-08:00

Why am I spending six weeks in Cambodia? The average tourist spends 3.2 days in Cambodia - that's much less than in neighbouring Thailand, Vietnam and even Laos. I'm interested to find out what is being done to change this. Can the entire country benefit from the rising numbers of tourists and not only the popular destinations of Angkor Wat?

More than 1,5 Million tourists visited the historic Khmer temples last year, and yet Siem Reap is still the third poorest region of Cambodia. Fruits and vegetables consumed in Siem Reap's many hotels and most handicraft bought by tourists are not produced locally but imported from neighbouring Thailand and Vietnam. What is being done to change that? What positive potentials does Cambodia's booming tourism industry have? But also, what are its dangers? How can Cambodia develop a sustainable, environment and social friendly tourism that benefits a large segment of its population? Those are some of the questions I would like to address on the road that will take me from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Kompong Thom, Ratanakiri, Mondulkiri and Sihanoukville.

Welcome to Phnom Penh

2007-01-24T16:29:00.000-08:00

It's my second trip to Cambodia. Last year I was well organised and had arranged my visa in advance with the Cambodian embassy in Berlin. This time I thought I'd get it at the airport.

With no special "VISA" signs and no one really speaking English I figured I'd stand in line with most of the other foreigners... A grim looking officer took my passport and pointed towards the left... I was not quite sure what he was trying to tell me or what I was supposed to do, so I waited with a few other startled tourists... five minutes later and 20 meters further down another officer suddenly waved my passport into the air with one hand, holding the other one out in return for cash. Still no spoken word.

At the passport control same speechless procedure. The purpose of my trip is to research tourism development in Cambodia. The welcome at the airport has certainly room for improvement. But having picked up my luggage and made it past another round of grumpy customs officials - I saw a huge sign saying GRUBER and my driver "James Bond" boasting the biggest smile. Welcome to the land of the smile!